It is believed that there has been a church on this site since AD 606. There may well have been a church here even earlier. Southwark Cathedral is the oldest cathedral church building in London, and archaeological evidence shows there was Roman pagan worship here well before that. PLAN
Southwark Cathedral sits on the South Bank of the Thames near the end of London Bridge. The axis of the Cathedral is close to east-west, so we will identify our liturgical and geographical directions. The Cathedral is essentially cruciform in shape with a chapel by the North transept, and an unusual large ‘retrochoir’ at the East end.
Most people will approach Southwark Cathedral across London Bridge. The four gables of the retrochoir are here visible, and the herb garden. The herb garden was constructed around the ruins of the medieval Ladye Chapel, using herbs which were grown in the Apothecaries’ Garden of St Thomas’ Hospital, originally near the site.
The Cathedral has an unusual Eastern aspect. The Great East window peeps out from behind the four gables of the retrochoir. This is the most ancient part of the Cathedral, and was designed by Sir Ninian Comper.
The 13th-century retrochoir is the earliest surviving Gothic building in London. The whole Cathedral was completed in Gothic style in the first half of the 14th-century. About this time it gained the name of St Mary Overie (= across the river).
For most of its life the Church has been part of the Diocese of Winchester. From 1106 it became an Augustinian Priory dedicated to St Mary. From 1539 it became the Parish Church of St Saviour, finally becoming the cathedral of the Southwark Diocese in 1905.
As we walk around the Cathedral we enjoy the little decorative touches. The door dates from the 12th century.
The Cathedral is built of flintstone and cream stone blocks. The main walls are supported by exposed buttresses, and a small tower caps each buttress in place of the usual pinnacle.
The tower is 35 feet square, and rises to a height of 163 feet six inches, including the 34 foot pinnacles. It was begun in 1310, when the four massive Norman piers were erected. The top two tiers of the tower were built by Bishop Fox of Winchester between 1520 and 1528. Octagonal, crocketted pinnacles, topped with vanes, rise from each of the four corners. The vanes were added by George Gwilt when the tower was restored in 1818, replacing the originals of 1689.
The Cathedral is unusual in that it has no main West door, but is entered through North and South doors at the West end. The resurrected Christ above the South door bids visitors welcome.
The South Gardens are a popular gathering place. In the middle of the paved area stands a large rough wooden cross, and behind, in the garden area, a sculpture of the Holy Family by Kenneth Hughes.
The attractive West wall of the Cathedral butts directly onto a busy thoroughfare.
The West wall has a main central three-lancet window, and matching smaller stained glass windows on each side. The wall is flanked by attractive octagonal towers, and behind is an array of spires including the Shard!
High on the West wall are small engravings of the Angel Gabriel appearing to Mary (left) and Christ bearing his Cross (right).
The front wrought iron fence bears this interesting sign. “For over 1000 years Christians have worshipped here. AD 606 – a convent : AD 1106 – a priory : AD 1540 – a parish church : AD 1905 – a cathedral. The oldest gothic church building in London. Gower, Chaucer, Shakespeare Massinger, Fletcher, Alleyn, Jonson, Harvard, Bishop Andrewes and Dickens are amongst those associated with this church.”
In the 1980’s a building of hexagonal design by Robert Sims was added at this corner of the Cathedral. It contains an Education Centre and the Cathedral Shop.
This is an image of the Cathedral in the City. The Shard towers up at the left, workmen set about their business, cars and trucks clutter the streets. The Cathedral provides a haven, the City many opportunities.
The best views of the Cathedral are from the North. On this side is a large paved courtyard with tables and chairs, and space for gathering together.
This part of the Cathedral complex has been added most recently, in 2001.