Beyond the choir stalls stands the (high) altar, dressed in the same simple style as the other altars: an attractive frontal with the ‘ihs’ symbol for Jesus, and supporting a cross and two candles. The surrounding wrought iron screens separate the sanctuary from the Lady Chapel and the curving ambulatory. INDEX
82. DOWN TO THE CRYPT LM GSV
We now leave the sanctuary and head back to the front of the nave and the stairs down to the crypt.
CRYPT
The crypt is the largest in Ireland, and perhaps in Britain. It was constructed in 1172, making it the oldest structure in Dublin. One aisle is closed off, and the Western (left) end contains a café, shop and toilets, as well as various exhibits. We look at these first. The Eastern end is entered through a special gate, and is barricaded off from the rest of the crypt. This is the Treasury, and contains various items of historic and monetary value. We shall finish our tour, admiring some of these treasures.
83. FIRST VIEW GSV
We walk down the steps from the Cathedral, and emerge facing East. There are two monuments along the wall to our left (we just catch a glimpse here of the nearest one), and ahead is a coat of arms.
84. TWO MONUMENTS LM LM
Here are the two mentioned monuments. At left is remembered John Lord Bowes, 1690 – 1767, Lord Chancellor of Ireland. His monument, including a bas-relief of his bust, was erected to him in that cathedral by his brother, Rumsey Bowes of Binfield, Berkshire. •• I can find no information about the memorial at right.
85. COAT OF ARMS LM LM
At the end of this little stone passage are statues of Charles I and II, with the royal arms between them. Charles I (1600 – 1649) was King of England, Scotland, and Ireland from 1625 until his execution in 1649. Charles II (1630 – 1685) was King of Scotland from 1649 until 1651 and King of England, Scotland, and Ireland from the 1660 Restoration of the monarchy until his death in 1685.
86. VIEW ACROSS THE CRYPT LM
We make our way to where we first entered the crypt and turn left. A short double passage runs from South to North. We get a glimpse of some colourful costumes to our right, and at the end of the left aisle there is a dramatic sculpture featuring a horse. A passage to our immediate left is blocked off. I suspect many items may be stored in here! Refer to page #89.
87. TUDOR COSTUMES LM
Many scenes from the TV series ‘The Tudors’ were cast in the Cathedral. The costumes are on exhibition in the crypt and are a must see.
88. STOCKS LM
Adjacent to the display of Tudor costumes on the North side is this set of old stocks. Made in 1670, these stocks were used to punish criminals in Christ Church Place. They were moved inside the cathedral in 1870.
89. JOHN CRAWFORD-SMITH MONUMENT WCT
We reach the Northern end of the cross-aisles and the John Crawford-Smith monument. The monument text reads: ‘Lieut. John Crawford Smith Ob A.D 1843. This monument is erected to the memory of John Crawford Smith, Lieut 1st or Leslie’s troop Bombay horse artillery, 3rd son of Robert Smith, of Mountjoy Square in the City of Dublin, Esq, and of Marion Letitia his wife born 24th February 1822, killed in general action fought victoriously by the forces under the command of Major General Sir Charles Napier K.C.B against the army of Ameer Shire Mahomed at Dubba, near Hyderabad on the 24th march 1843. In his public dispatches Sir Chas Napier thus relates the intrepid valour which caused this gallant young officer’s lamented but glorious death: I have deeply to lament the fall of Lieut J.C Smith of the Bombay horse Artillery. With unsurpassed and desperate valour he galloped in Front of his battery and rode up on top of the Nulla (filled with enemies) to see where his guns could bear with greatest advantage - here this hero fell.’ Refer to page #86. [Photo Credit: Wikimedia Sailko]
90. NORTH CENTRE AISLE GSV
This is looking West down the North central aisle. The café tables are spreading in from the right! We walk down towards the café.
91. RENNY AND MATHIAS MEMORIALS WCT
Looking right, these memorials are against the café North wall. The left monument remembers George Renny (1757 – 1848) who was Director General of the Medical Department of the Army of Ireland. •• The more interesting monument at right remembers Assistant Surgeon Henry Matthias (died 1849). The memorial shows the ships HMS Investigator and HMS Enterprise on which he served in the Arctic. [Photo Credit: Wikimedia J. -H. Janßen]
92. EPITAPH AND ELLIS MONUMENT WCT WCT
Further along this café wall are these monuments: an epitaph at left, and a memorial to many members of the Ellis family. Welbore Ellis (1651?–1734) was an English bishop of Kildare, bishop of Meath and Irish privy councillor. [Photo1 Credit: Wikimedia J. -H. Janßen] [Photo2 Credit: Sailko]
93. VAULTED CEILING AND ARCHES LM
As we approach the gift shop, we take time to appreciate the vaulting and arches of this ancient crypt.
94. KING AND SNEYD MEMORIALS WCT LM
There are two memorials, side by side, on the West wall of the crypt. These belong to John Wallace King who died in Lahore in 1850, and Nathanuel Sneyd (1767 – 1833) who was an Irish politician, landowner and businessman. Sneyd was shot in the head by a madman, John Mason, who had a grudge against the firm of wine merchants Sneyd, French and Barton, where Sneyd was senior partner. Sneyd died of his wounds two days later. [Photograph1 Credit: Wikimedia J. -H. Janßen]
95. CAT AND RAT LM
We make our back along the Southern central aisle to find the Cat and Rat – the Cathedral’s two unexpected residents who catch most visitors’ attention. A cat and a rat were discovered in an organ pipe in the 1850s, and their mummified bodies are now on display. Eternally trapped in chase, the duo is affectionately named Tom and Jerry and even got a mention in James Joyce’s novel Finnegan’s Wake. Observant viewers may have noticed that this exhibit moves around! (See #87.)
96. TOMB OF GILBERT NICHELSON LM
Also in this aisle is the tomb of Gilbert Nichelson (died 1709 at age 89), and his wife.
98. PASSAGE TO SOUTHEAST CORNER GSV
entering the Treasury, we follow around keeping to the right, past an old Bible, and to a red display cabinet.
99. SOUTHEAST CORNER DISPLAY GSV
The display cabinet contains various items including an old book, candlesticks, goblets and an altar cloth.
100. CANON MISSAE WCT
The book is open to a page with the title ‘CANON MISSÆ’. The name relates to the Mass used by the early Church, or more particularly, that part of the Mass following the Sanctus, which never changes. [Photograph Credit: Wikimedia Zairon]